Castle Ogrodzieniec

If you have time for only one other stop after Ojców, make it this one. About 60km and an hour’s drive from Kraków, Ogrodzieniec Castle offers some of the most stunning views in Jura; in fact, it was exactly here that Aleksander Janowski was inspired to found the Polish Tourism Association (PTTK) back in 1906. Perched atop the highest point in the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland chain at 504 metres, this legendary castle is surrounded by some of the most picturesque, imposing inselbergs in the area – an attraction in themselves. The castle and its scenic surrounds are actually located about 2km east of Ogrodzieniec in Podzamcze. Like the other Jura castles, Ogrodzieniec was built on the initiative of King Kazimierz in the 14th century before the Boner family (the same unfortunately surnamed clan of the ‘palace’ on Kraków’s market square) enlarged and converted it into a Renaissance residence said to rival Wawel Castle beginning in 1532. Subsequently destroyed three times with the Swedes tallying two of the devastating tantrums, Ogrodzieniec fell into ruin and several of its once great walls were even razed in the 19th century to provide masonry for other building works. Today its a picturesque ruin eclipsing all others in the country and has been stabilised safely so that visitors can lose their orientation inside its maze of dead ends and dizzying vantage points – including two intact towers – over several levels. Admission is required and guests will find a PTTK tourist information office – the first in the country – inside its walled courtyard just past the impressive gate. A seasonal cafe and restaurant in one cellar, as well as a touristy torture museum and medieval kitsch merchants do little to detract from the charm of this imposing site, one of PL’s most treasured.